Maps
Left bank
[ To find Hardwick House going upstream look for a small island then look to your right.
At the end of the next field is a double line of trees leading to the house. ]
Map: Close up of house
To Nature in my earliest youth,
I vowed my constancy and truth;
Wherein lie HARDWICK'S much loved shade,
Enamoured of her charms I strayed,
And as I roved the woods among,
Her praise in lisping numbers sung.
Poem by Dean Powys
1762: Caroline Powys, a letter to a friend -
We live at Hardwick (our father with us) in a large old house, about twelve rooms on a floor, with four staircases, the situation delightful on the declivity of a hill, the most beautiful woods behind, and fine views of the Thames and rich meadows in front. Hardwick Woods you may perhaps have heard of, as parties come so frequently to walk in them, and request to drink tea in a cottage (called 'Straw Hill') erected for that purpose in a delightful spot commanding a noble view of the Thames.
1768: from the Diaries of Mrs. Lybbe Powys, Hardwick House, edited by Emily J Climenson -
Besides an excellent husband, our Caroline had
become the mistress of one of the most beautiful
estates on the banks of the Thames. Hard wick
House, near Whitchurch, Oxon, was, and is, of unique
interest, equally to lovers of history as to admirers of
scenery. Situated on a grassy slope leading down to
the river, commanding fine views of the same, and
yet elevated sufficiently to avoid the river fogs, backed
by a steep hill, richly clad with exquisite hanging
woods, which protect the house from the north and
east winds, it possesses an unrivalled aspect, whilst
its exterior presents a crowd of picturesque gables,
surmounted by the quaint clock-tower, rising from
mellowed red walls, adorned with stone mullioned
windows a most pleasing style of architecture. In-
ternally its interesting and comfortable apartments
combine to form a tout ensemble hard to beat.
As to its ancient history, the Manor of Hardwick
was amongst the list of twenty-eight lordships given
by William the Conqueror to his favourite, Robert D'Oyley,
on his marriage with Aldith, the daughter of
Wigod, Thane of Wallingford (the faithful friend and
cupbearer to the Conqueror).
...
It is stated in a paper of Bransby Powys,
grandson of our heroine, and who may be deemed
the archaeologist of the family, that the family of De
Herdewyke held Hardwick soon after the Norman
Conquest. Canon Slatter derives the name Hardwick
as Hard Spring, wick or wyke, used for wich and
wych, being Celtic for a spring. This spring is named
in the old Saxon boundaries of Whitchurch. As
proper names were frequently derived from the place
persons lived in, doubtless the De Herdewycks adopted
theirs from their abode.
...
During this Mr. Lybbe's life occurred the dreadful
period of the Civil Wars. In 1642, at its commencement,
loans were levied by King Charles I. on his
faithful subjects. The following is a copy of the loan
levied on Richard Lybbe:
"1642. Declaration to raise ,100,000 from subjects
in loans. 40 demanded from Mr. Lybbe on plate.
Toucht plate at 55., untoucht plate at 45. 4d. per
ounce. Seven days given to find and give to the
High Sheriff (then Sir Thomas Chamberlayne), who
is to pay back at Corpus Christi, Oxford."
The King's signature is at the top of this paper, the
rest in print, containing the signatures of the Earl of
Bath, Lord Seymour, John Ashburnham, John Fetti-
place. It was addressed "To our trusty and well-
beloved Richard Lybbe." The King acknowledged
the receipt of the loan, and Mr. Lybbe eventually
endorsed the paper at the back, "Was never paid back,
nor expected it, but the document would have a value
of its own"
In 1643 the Parliamentary troops from Reading
sacked the house at Hardwick, "taking awaie," as Mr.
Lybbe piteously describes it, plate to the value of near
£200 (a list of which will be found at the end of this
work), and other goods, including a fine bed with
velvet hangings, to a total of £800. Mr. Lybbe
meanwhile being obliged to conceal himself for fear
of being taken prisoner. He, however, managed to
save his best horses, and sent three for the King's
service to Captain Tom Davis, who was in a troop
under the Marquis of Hertford.
There is a tradition in the family that at the
commencement of the war a large sum of money was
buried for security, and every subsequent generation
of descendant children have dug for the same, but without success!
...
In one of the memorandum books of the Lybbes is
this entry : "King Charles the First was prisoner at
Causham Lodge, and bowled in Collin's End Green,
9th July 1648, attended by a troop of horse of
Colonel Rossiter's." Collin's End is on the top of
the hill at the back of Hardwick, and belonged to the
Lybbe estate. There was a bowling-green attached
to an inn there, afterwards called the " King's Head."
The original house is now Holly Copse, but there is
an inn near bearing the same sign.
Charles I. was at Caversham, 3 from July 3rd to the
22nd in 1647. Mr. Jesse, in his "History of the
Stewarts," says : " He (the King), frequently went to
the bowling-green at Collin's End, Mr. Lybbe Powys'
possession. There was a small building for shelter
and refreshment near. Mr. Powys has a picture at
Hardwick of the old lady who lived in the house near,
who used to wait on the King when he visited the
green." This picture is now at Holly Copse, near
Collin's End, belonging to Mr. Lybbe Powys, as well
as Queen Mary's stirrup. The bowling-green is now
an orchard. Lord Augustus FitzClarence, Rector of
Maple-Durham, gave to this inn, years after, a portrait-
sign of the King, copied from a Vandyck, under which
the following lines by Mr Jesse were inscribed:
Stop, traveller, stop ; in yonder peaceful glade
His favourite game the royal martyr played ;
Here, stripped of honours, children, freedom, rank,
Drank from the bowl, and bowled for what he drank
Sought in a cheerful glass his cares to drown,
And changed his guinea ere he lost his crown.
In a paper of Bransby Powys he states of
the house: "Some portions are evidently of a very
early period, and were probably existing in the time
of Richard II., but the south front or river front was
built by Anthony Lybbe after the restoration of Charles
II., when the house appears to have required great
repairs, in consequence of the dilapidations occasioned
during the Civil War, the known loyalty of its owner
having subjected it more than once to the pillage
of the Parliamentary forces."
...
To return to a description of Hardwick House.
The general architecture is Tudor, though, as mentioned
before, a portion is far older, supposed to be of
Richard II.'s reign. Time has mellowed the bricks
it is built of into a colour that fascinates the artist's
eye ; the windows picked out with stone, a few modernised,
but the majority retaining their original
shape. The south front of the house has been extended
considerably by the present lessee [1899], Mr. C. Day Rose,
but very judiciously ; he has also built new stables, a
covered tennis-court, cottages, &c.
...
On the south side
of the house runs a broad terrace, beneath this a flower
garden on a gradual slope to the river Thames, with
fine trees scattered around notably a fine cedar on
the east side, and opposite Queen Elizabeth's bedchamber
a large mass of clipped yew, through which
an arch is cut, forming a quaint object. The entrance
is on the north side of the house, under the clocktower,
but another door has been made close by. On
this side the ground rises in a steep grassy slope for a
great height ; on either side this vista hang the most
exquisite woods, forming a complete shelter from the
north and east. On the top of the slope is a fine
natural terrace, from which is a superb view. Here
stands a cottage called "Straw Hall," once a favourite
resort of picnic parties, but since game has become
more strictly preserved is closed to the public. Written
over "Straw Hall," in 1756, is a verse by Thomas
Powys, brother of Philip, and afterwards Dean of
Canterbury, who had a great turn for rhyming:
Within this cot no polished marble shines,
Nor the rich product of Arabian mines ;
The glare of splendour and the toys of state,
Resigned, unenvied, to the proud and great ;
Whilst here reclined, those nobler scenes you view
Which Nature's bold, unguided pencil drew.
...
Returned to the house, the spectator enters from
the porch a square panelled hall, hung with many
family portraits and furnished with old oak ; to the
left of this is a drawing-room. A very fine room used
as a dining-room is beyond the Queen Elizabeth's
staircase. The wainscoting of the walls, most elegant
in design, a very handsome plaster ceiling, and
in the mantelpiece is a stucco head, said to be a likeness
of King Alfred.
One of the principal staircases, which is shut off
from the hall, is extremely handsome, the balustrades
all oak richly carved, the plaster ceiling most exquisitely
modelled. This staircase leads to Queen
Elizabeth's bed-chamber, now used as a drawing-room,
and both staircase and room were decorated for the
visit paid by the Queen to Mr. Lybbe. Queen Elizabeth's
room looks east, is very large, with a splendid
oriel window at east end. The whole of it is panelled
with most richly carved oak, the details of which
would take too much room to describe. The door
and its case are remarkably ornate. Over the fireplace,
which has a carved back and contains very
ancient dog-irons, is a most curious over-mantel, which
represents Abraham offering Isaac as a sacrifice. An
angel is seizing his arm to prevent this. In niches
at the side are large figures of Faith, Hope, Justice,
and Charity. Above these are the Lybbe arms. But
what makes this very noteworthy is that the whole is
carved in chalk, which retains its original sharpness
of outline in a remarkable manner, and is, I believe,
in these days a lost art.
The plaster ceiling is elaborately modelled, and
in the centre, at intervals, are three portrait medallion
heads of Queen Elizabeth. Four other heads in
medallions are placed at the corners, of the following
incongruous personages, viz., Joshua (dux), Jeroboam,
Fama, and Julius Caesar, all fully inscribed, so that no
doubt may exist as to their personalities, though why
they are selected, with the exception of Fama, is a
mystery. Some years ago, unfortunately, the bedstead
was disposed of, but a pencil-drawing of it exists
in one of Bransby Powys' big family scrap-books, and
represents a huge handsome carved four-poster, in
which we can imagine the Virgin Queen reposing
under her own medallion portraits.
The bedrooms are numerous and comfortable,
retaining old-fashioned names, such as the "blue
room," "mahogany room," &c., &c., the "powder
room," a very essential apartment when people loaded
their head or wigs with powder. This is now made
into a dressing-room. There are several staircases,
many sitting-rooms, and long corridors filled with
pictures, ...
1792: Picturesque Views on the Thames by Samuel Ireland -
... on the Oxfordshire side of
the river, at Hardwick, is the residence of Mr. Gardener, formerly in the possession of
Mr. Powis. It is happily sheltered by the
neighbouring hills, and at an agreeable distance from the river.
This house was probably
in former times a monastery ; and its
situation is chosen with that degree of attention
to the conveniencies, and even luxuries,
of this transitory state, for which the founders
of most of our religious houses have been
famed.
1793: Hardwick House, Boydell-
Hardwick and Maple-Durham. June 1, 1793.
J. Farington R.A. delt. J.C. Stadler sculpt.
(Published) by J. & J. Boydell, Shakespeare Gally. Pall Mall &
(No. 90) Cheapside London.
1829: A Tour on the Banks of the Thames -
Near to [Hardwick] is a goodly hostel, called Colin's End, where,
while we partook of some excellent brown bread, butter, &c., washed down by a fine glass of ale,
our loquacious host informed us we were on the spot so often visited by Charles the First,
who, while detained a prisoner at Caversham, was allowed by his keepers to come here,
where he diverted himself with a game at bowls, of which game he was passionately fond.
There is a picture hanging up in one of the rooms of an ancient personage, formerly the landlady, who attended Charles on such occasions.
1842: Hardwick House in The Environs of Reading, J.G.Robertson -
Hardwick House, J G Robertson 1842
1874: Hardwick House, Henry Taunt -
Hardwick House, Henry Taunt, 1874
© Oxfordshire County Council Photographic Archive; HT01356
1881: George Leslie -
In among the trees at the foot of the hills may be seen the smoke from the chimneys of the fine old red-brick house of Hardwick; a broad opening has been kindly made through the elms in front of the house, through which a good view of its quaint gables is obtained from the river; like most old houses it gains considerably in effect as the sun’s rays get low. When the wind ceases to ruffle the water, the smoke rises through the elms in a straight column, and the rooks return to their homes; then too can be heard the sound of an old clock bell tanging the hours and quarters. Hardwick lacks the hidden mystery of Maple Durham, but has a stately charm of its own which is quite as good in its way.
1889: Jerome K Jerome -
A little above Mapledurham lock you pass Hardwick House, where Charles I played bowls.
1906: G E Mitton -
a fine old house, Hardwicke, is passed. Charles I stayed here and played bowls. The house itself is well protected by trees, but it stands in rather open country, amid bare chalk uplands, where sometimes may be seen a curious opaline glow in pale sunshine.
The King Charles -
A mile beyond Mapledurham is the site of the old "King Charles" (now removed) where swung a portrait in oil of the king, supposed to be the work of Lord Adolphus Fitzclarence, beneath which was written —
Stop, traveller, stop. In yonder peaceful glade
His favourite game the Royal martyr played;
Here 'reft of children, honour, freedom, rank,
Drank from the bowl, and bowled for what he drank;
Sought in a cheerful glass his carts to drown,
And changed his guinea ere he lost his crown.
Oratory School Boathouse, left bank.
The Oratory Boathouse is also the home of the
Goring Gap Boat Club who have punts for local members and also
some rowing in fours.
Hardwick Estate
Hardwick Estate is a private estate, owned by the Rose family who have been here for
three generations. The Estate covers 500 hectares. Much of it is commercial woodland.
There is a wide range of habitats on the Estate, ranging from the flood plain of the
river Thames to chalk down-land, conifer and deciduous woodland and arable stock farming.
Most of the Estate has been managed organically for 20 years and due to its low input nature
prior to that, it hosts an exceptional variety of flora and fauna, few places exist with such
a range in this part of the world. Bird life is particularly good from Goldcrest to Red Kite
and everything in between.
There are several separate businesses run at Hardwick:-
1. The market garden and field vegetables.
2. The main farm (Path Hill). a beef and arable unit.
3. Organic table poultry, under the name of “Hardwick Rangers”
1881: George Leslie -
The water is not very deep from Hardwick House to the bridge at Pangbourne, and has many beds of round rushes growing in it, which indicate a good hard gravel, suitable for punting. These round rushes when not growing too thick are very pleasant to punt through, the sound of them rattling and rubbing along the sides of the boat having a soothing effect on anyone lying in the stern. Children in boats always want to pick them; they call them fishing-rods. When you pull rushes they frequently come up from their roots, sometimes six or seven feet long, and a variety of amusement can be got out of them by plaiting or pealing; a sort of little boat can be made by flattening and winding them round themselves into an oblong form, with the end stuck up through it for a mast, which please children very much.
Basildon Park
Basildon Park and Combe Lodge, 1811
The view of these two places is taken from Pangbourn ...
[Basilden Park] has somewhat of antiquity connected with it, being mentioned in the Domesday book,
as then held by Miles Crispin of William the Conqueror.
Its manor and church were afterwards granted to the Abbey of Reading,
as appears from the confirmation of the charter of Henry the Second, its founder,
by Hubert, Archbishop of Canterbury, and Robert, Bishop of Sarum.
It afterwards formed a part of the great possessions of Edward, Duke of Somerset,
who was executed in the last year of Edward the Sixth;
and after various successive grants, &c. this manor and estate were finally conveyed,
in the year 1671, to John Breadon, Esq. whose descendant is the present possessor of them.
This view comprehends the upper part of Basilden Park, a place which may boast a very large portion of decorated,
sylvan beauty, both from nature and disposition.
The park was improved by Mr. [capability] Browne, and is one among the many proofs which he has left of excellence in his art.
The house was erected by the late Sir Francis Sykes, after a design of that eminent architect, Mr. Carr, of York.
It is a large regular edifice of Portland stone, with correspondent wings, and a central loggio in the principal front.
The prospect from it is very rich, but, strange as it may appear, not a glimpse is caught,
from the principal floor, of the river which flows beneath it. The attic story alone catches sight of the Thames.
The other part of this view embraces Combe Lodge, the seat of Samuel Gardner, Esq. in the parish of Whitchurch.
It is an handsome villa, constructed within a few years, and
is situated in the centre of an acclivity, which gives it a very commanding view of the Thames.
The Grotto House presents a very pleasing object on the opposite bank of the river, behind which,
Basilden and its woods, with the Streatley Hills, rise in great beauty.
(Whitchurch Bridge)
Estuary
PLA
QEII Br
Barrier
Tower Br
Custom Ho
London Br
; Frost Fairs
Cannon St Rb
The Great Stink
Southwark Br
Millenium Br
Blackfriars Rb
Blackfriars Br
Waterloo Br
Charing Cross Rb
Westminster Br
Lambeth Br
Vauxhall Br
Victoria Rb
Chelsea Br
Albert Br
Battersea Br
Battersea Rb
Wandsworth Br
Fulham Rb
Putney Br
Hammersmith Br
Barnes Rb
Chiswick Br
Kew Rb
Kew Br
RICHMOND
Twickenham Br
Richmond Rb
Richmond Br
TEDDINGTON
Kingston Rb
Kingston Br
Ditton Slip
Hampton Br
MOLESEY
SUNBURY
Walton Br
Desborough Cut
SHEPPERTON
Chertsey Br
CHERTSEY
M3 Br
Laleham Slip
PENTON HOOK
Staines Rb
Staines Br
Runnymede Br
BELL WEIR
Magna Carta Is
OLD WINDSOR
Albert Br
Datchet
Victoria Br
Black Potts Rb
ROMNEY
Eton
Windsor Br
Windsor Rb
Windsor Slip
Elizabeth Br
BOVENEY
Dorney Lake
York Cut
Summerleaze Fb
MonkeyIsland
New Thames Br
BRAY
Bray Slip
Maidenhead Rb
Maidenhead Br
Below Boulters
BOULTERS
Cliveden
Hedsor
COOKHAM
Cookham Slip
Cookham Br
BourneEnd RFb
Quarry Woods
A404 Br
MARLOW
Marlow Br
Bisham
TEMPLE
HURLEY
Medmenham
Culham Ct
Aston Slip
HAMBLEDEN
Temple Is
Fawley Ct
Remenham
Regatta
Phyllis Ct
Henley Slip
Leander
Red Lion
Henley Br
Angel on Br
Landing
Hobbs Boatyard
Hobbs Slipway
MARSH
Hennerton
Bolney
Wargrave
Shiplake Rb
R.Loddon
SHIPLAKE
Sonning Br
SONNING
Dreadnought
K&A Canal
CAVERSHAM
Reading Br
Caversham Br
Reading Slip
Purley
MAPLEDURHAM
Hardwick Ho
Whitchurch Br
WHITCHURCH
Hartswood Reach
Gatehampton Rb
Goring Gap
Goring Br
GORING
Swan
CLEEVE
Moulsford
Moulsford Rb
Papist Way Slip
Winterbrook Br
Wallingford Br
BENSON
Shillingford Br
R.Thame
DAYS
Burcot
Clifton Hampden
Clifton Church
Clifton H Br
Barley Mow
Long Wittenham
CLIFTON
Appleford Rb
Sutton Courtenay
Sutton Br
CULHAM
Culham Cut Fb
Abingdon Slip
Abingdon
Abingdon Br
ABINGDON
Nuneham Rb
Nuneham
Nuneham Park
Radley Boats
SANDFORD
Rose Island
Kennington Rb
Isis Br
Iffley Mill
IFFLEY
Oxford Rowing
Isis
Donnington Br
Riverside Slip
Boathouses
Punting
Lower Cherwell
Upper Cherwell
Islip
Head of River
Salters Steamers
Folly Br
Bacons Folly
Oxford Fb
Osney Fb
Weir stream
Osney Rb
Bullstake Stream
Osney Marina
OSNEY
Osney Br
Four Rivers
OLD RIVER
CANAL
Medley Weir Site
Medley Fb
Bossoms
Perch
Trout
GODSTOW
Godstow Nunnery
Godstow Br
Thames Br
KINGS
River Evenlode
EYNSHAM
Swinford Br
Oxford Cruisers
PINKHILL
Farmoor
Stanton Harcourt
Bablock Slip
Arks Weir Site
NORTHMOOR
Harts Fb
//Rose Revived
Newbridge
//Maybush
River Windrush
below Shifford
SHIFFORD
Shifford Fb
Tenfoot Fb
Trout Inn
Tadpole Br
RUSHEY
Old Mans Fb
RADCOT
Radcot Cradle Fb
Swan Inn
Radcot New Br
Radcot Old Br
GRAFTON
Eaton Hastings
Kelmscott
Eaton Fb
BUSCOT
Bloomers Hole Fb
Trout Inn
St Johns Br
ST JOHNS
Halfpenny Br
Marina Slip
LIMIT
Inglesham
Hannington Br
Kempsford
Castle Eaton Br
Marston Meysey
A419 Br
Cricklade
SOURCE?
THAMES HEAD
SEVEN SPRINGS